New tool – A 3D Printer!

After working on the the Utility CNC idea for a while, I came to the realisation that I’m not actually making much or any real progress forward. It was more just going around in circles constantly updating parts. I figured this was mostly because I didn’t have much free time or any money to waste on things that might not be the best or could change later. So I needed to change up the way I attacked the entire project and remove the fear of wasting money committing to a design and getting it made to testing out. Of course working on one, full set of designs which get made all together and all work perfectly would be awesome, but the lack of payoff in the meantime is just going to lose my interest. Its a hobby, its meant to be enjoyable.

Firstly I changed the way I will attack the problems. Really its all about setting smaller goals and isolating parts without losing touch of the entire project. I know the overall objectives and have an idea of how everything fits together. Now I just need the parts.

Secondly, and the main reason for this post, is a way of me making prototype parts or sections to test out without costing me my beer or travel money. Hence the purchase of a cheap (very cheap) 3D printer. In all honesty its a small project in itself, but when its finished it should be a very useful tool, not only for mechanical mock ups and prototypes, but hopefully also for electronics by engraving bare PCBs.

The printer itself is a Prusia i3 Chinese clone. Features:

3D Printer

  • A basic controller capable of running autonomously. (Atmel MCU,  LCD interface, all-in-one main board, MARLIN software)
  • Basic stepper motor and belt drives on linear bearings
  • Fastened acrylic constriction (not great but with a bit of epoxy should be a lot better)
  • 200 x 200 x 200 build volume

As for the project part of it, I’m currently in the process of designing a new carriage assembly to accept a lighter Bowden type extruder and also a small 12V engraving motor, both of which can be swapped out with only 3 or 4 wingnuts and an electronics socket. That’s the theory anyway.

I know its not going to be the best, but that’s not what its meant to be. Its meant to be a way for me to test out ideas in a cost effective way and hopefully help complete goals quicker. Plus I’ll get my hands on parts quicker.

I’ll try and keep the posts going as it comes along….. if it’s working out that is 😛

Utility CNC idea. Part 1

Over the last couple of months (pretty much ever since I packed up my workshop back home really) I’ve been thinking about a prototyping machine. Just something small. Basically a 3D printer, router, engraver, laser engraver, pick and place, general purpose combination CNC…thing. Not all of these things at once obviously. But what it could eventually become.

But above that I think it will be a pretty good project for me while I’m traveling. It involves a lot of research, planning, design and testing, both mechanical and electrically. So it will keep me busy for a while in a variety of areas, won’t have any large or expensive parts till its quite far through when I have committed to making it (and should only need to buy parts once if its well planned out 😛 ). But after all the planning, research, design and making it, it should be an easily transportable tool for me to use in lieu of having an actual workshop. Well that’s the idea at this stage anyway.

What are the must haves / restrictions / requirements / scope:

  • Cheap. Ideally less than $500 NZD parts cost (excluding research parts). But this could be extended depending on my circumstances at the time.
  • Lightweight. Less than 8kg would be good.
  • Compact. To collapse or fold-up (for example), to fit in a normal suitcase with other stuff
  • Accurate. Ideally <+-0.1mm X, Y positioning and <+-0.05mm Z positioning.
  • Have ability to interchange heads for multiple uses.
  • As rigid as possible. An arm design is never going to be very rigid, so some flex is expected.
  • Have a working area of at least 150x150x50mm : X Y Z (about the size of a standard piece of bare PCB).
  • Have a stand alone controller. No computer necessary to continue operation after programming i.e run off an SD card.

Secondary goals, I don’t need these but they would be cool to try and have:

  • Use DIY brushless servo motors. Because I hate the sound of stepper motors and I  want to learn more about brushless motors.
  • Use 32bit ARM or similar based MCU on the main controller. I want to learn to program new devices.
  • Look interesting, clean and professional. Well as professional and clean as I can anyway.
  • Have as little wiring as possible. Daisy chained communication and power lines for example.

So now all of the boring goals are out of the way, what am I thinking it will look like? Any ideas on the design? Parts?

Hahaha yea actually. Recently did a bus tour around mainland Europe so I had lots of down time on long journeys to think/ draw it out. After a bit of research currently I’m inclining towards a planer arm type CNC. Something like this, but my design:

(I would actually go for this but it isn’t in production yet and I don’t really like spending a lot of money on things when I’ll be missing out on learning. Within reason of course.)

http://www.fluxintegration.com/pages/flx-arm

Now that I had an idea of how the thing will be moving, I started thinking about the how, did some concept drawing and tightened down some of the technical details. For example:

  • On axis magnetic, rotary position sensors / encoders. From what I’ve found so far they are the most accurate and easiest to use for the price.
  • Laser / Water Jet cut Arm plates. Allows me to custom design the arms without expensive post machining (I’ll do the simple stuff like countersinking etc) and not that expensive either.
  • Off the shelf, Needle Roller thrust bearings and Ball bearings. Without precision machining in the arm joints I’m a bit limited for choice :S
  • A cylindrical type clamp in the B axis arm for the interchangeable heads. Just the easiest for the arm and the heads.
  • Ball screw for the Z Axis (up and down). Simple and precise.
  • There aren’t any low cost, small brushless motors really. So I’m going to have to make some. I’m planning on using low speed, High Torque BLDC (Brushless DC) motors used in camera gimbals. But to get the best out of the motors I will need to add hall effect sensors and make my own controllers.
  • The arms will need to be driven via some sort of gear reduction. I was originally thinking high precision Planetary Reduction Gearboxes. But because i don’t want to spend too much money and still want to have it fairly accurate, Ill just use MXL timing belts and pulleys to get about a 1:5 reduction. It wont be as powerful but hopefully enough for what i need it to do. Ill Just have to see how the motors spec out, then go from there.

DSC_0534I have also started to think about how this is going to calculate the angles it needs to position the A and B axis arms to put the head at the correct X:Y coordinate input. Its just basic trig, but it just needed a nice diagram to help see what was going on. It also helped to show the limitations for CNC work where it needs to move in uninterrupted motions. Like moving in a straight line without moving up off the work. The areas where this is permissible are simply shown as the light green boxes.

So for example it could draw a continuous line anywhere within these boxes. But (in some cases) if it was to draw a line out of one of these boxes. it would need to lift the pen off the paper, flip the pen to the other side of the arm, position where it stopped, then continue the line.

Now after all the initial concepts, I like to CAD up the basic design just to check there isn’t anything crucial I have missed on paper. So here is a peek of  what the design is looking like so far.

Red is the motor inside the plates in the A-Axis arm. Dark Grey is the Z-Axis carriage. Light grey with the large hole in it is the B-Axis arm where the different heads are clamped into.

CNC ARM Over Under 23.7.15

3020 CNC Engraver/Router

3020small-e1416424522964 2013-09-30 10.14.44

This is a bit of a boring post as its more of a review of a product at the start. But not to fear, just skip down to the bottom to see what this CNC does and the type of things I’ve made with it.

I’ve wanted a CNC machine for a long time before i got this machine but they were way, way, WAY too expensive for me to buy or even make. Probably because i was wanting it to much. So I eventually figured what i realistically wanted to use it for and for the price range i wanted to spend on it. Basically i only came up with 2 major uses:

  • Making circuit board; engraving, drilling and light milling
  • Light milling; plastics, non-ferrous and thin ferrous metals

And after some research the 3020 CNC seemed like it would be adequate for for what i wanted to do and only cost about $1100 NZD inc shipping from China.

  • Working area of 300mm Y axis, 200mm X axis and 50mm Z axis
  • 48v DC, 200W spindle with ER11 collet chuck
  • fairly solid aluminum construction
  • NEMA 23 stepper motors on all axes

So I ordered one. It arrived 1 week later (pretty speedy really). Out of the box I was actually quite impressed with its build. It felt pretty solid for a small, aluminum machine.  Everything needed was there and it was ready to go, just needed a computer to run it. But as im sure everyone knows, with cheap Chinese copied products they tend to have a couple of issues.

The issues and upgrades i had and did to it:

  • Sometimes missing steps, i believe it was to its stepper motor controller board being average design.
  • Z axis lead screw shaft had vertical movement
  • I had ball screws made for all three axes and modified the Z axis so the lead screw had no more vertical movement
  • The original spindle design was shit! The lower bearing was in a rubber sleeve (probably to account for poor machining and or large tolerances) which just let the spindle flop around while cutting and chatter. I brought and additional spindle and modified front bearing housing to increase the rigidity. So i had one strong, slower spindle and one high speed spindle i could swap out for different projects.
  • The controllers power/Spindle controller board blew some components and wasn’t setup so the computer could control the spindle. So i made a new Board and configured it so the spindle was software controllable.
  • The table wasn’t level
  • Added homing switches for each axis

Overall Review:

If your after a ready made solution for very light milling, engraving and making PCBs, its a pretty good base machine. I would recommend replacing the spindle motor. It’s poor quality and induces a lot of chatter. Secondly replace the ACME lead screws with Ball screws for all axes so you don’t need to word about backlash. If your going to be doing more than just engraving, say 3D contouring i would also recommend getting a machine without the standard controller and or sourcing a better one yourself. Just to make it more reliable and accurate.

Now for some fun stuff, here are some examples of some things i made with it:

PCB’s:

I design the PCB’s in Eagle CAD and processed in PCB-GCODE. lots of PCB’s! its suck a good tool to have if your prototyping up a lot of electronics.

pendant render rev 2

Engraving work:

These were some pendants i made with my girlfriend. We had some hand written text we scanned into the computer, edited it then engraved it onto the back of a pendant. On the front we engraved an image of an Owl.

The pendant was made from a thin sheet of brass glued between two pieces of Remu wood. To get the pendants out of the stock it was secured down to the table of the CNC, the wood layer of the upward
side milled down to the correct thickness. Then the images engraved through the wood and onto the brass sheet beneath. This actually worked really well and made the engraving really stand out and shine. Especially after a coat or two of varnish.

Inboard Kayak motor

drive setup

drive setup

As i was getting into sea kayaking and fishing, and how i always live things with motors in them.  I thought i would be a cool idea to have a motorized kayak.

What i figured i wanted was an inbuilt design, just so it was tidier and didn’t cut anyone up with spinning parts. I wanted it to be electric start so there was less risk of capsizing just trying to reach around and pull start it. And it wanted it to be as small as possible. Also cheap. Like no money. So really just from stuff i already had lying around.

As the motor would be inside a water vessel, it seemed logical to have it water cooled. And because i didn’t have the money for an actual outboard motor, I just used what i had. A weed-eater motor. 30 ish cubic centermeters of raw power 😛

The problem was weed-eaters are air cooled. to solve this i figured i could make a fiberglass water jacket and since the motor wouldn’t get above 150°C, the resin should hold up fine. For a cold water supply, i was just going to use water from the pump unit. Like how Jet-skis do.

This was my first experience fiberglass molding and coating, so it was pretty rough. The molds didn’t release as i intended and there were many second attempts, patch jobs and fixes. But it was fun and a good learning experience.

Once again this project was never put into use. This time because i didn’t actually end up getting another kayak to put it into. should have really been the first step to get another kayak but where is the fun in that :P. So for the rest of its life it sat on a shelf in the garage, unused, until the house burnt down and it became a puddle.

Direct Injected 2-Stroke Lawnmower motor

Motor Overview

Motor Overview

I’ve always wanted to make a engine control unit (ECU). So when the i came into possession of a old 2 stroke lawn mower motor, i took the opportunity to play around with electronic engine management and direct fuel injection.

After checking the motor ran, i pulled it apart to work on the modifications. Basically i took a fuel system out of a car, attached it to the side side of the motor and put the injector in the cylinder head. I know this wouldn’t last long term. But i was just wanting to play around and see if i could 😛

IMGP8738

This setup was pretty basic and had the carburetor only controlling the air flow while a sensor measured the air flow setting. A sensor on the crankshaft that determined the point in the intake stroke the exhaust port closed i.e. when to inject the fuel. A basic 12v driver circuit to run the injector. And finally the Arduino Micro-controller, the brains of the operation. Its job was to calculate the time the injector should be open, based on the air flow valve sensor. Then to activate the injector for the pre-calculated amount of time when the crankshaft sensor is activated. The ignition i kept standard as i didn’t want to take on too much at once and have too many variables.

In the end i never did get it to run. The most i got it to do was shoot fireballs out the exhaust, which I think was from injecting way too much and too late.

Looking back i think it could have actually been pretty close to running with just advancing crank sensor position and reducing the injector on-time a bunch. Also an exhaust with some decent back pressure would have also helped with pre-charge pressure.

Possible changes for future iterations:

  • Have an actual Fuel map and ideally a O2 sensor
  • A better, faster Injector driver circuit
  • More precise injector timing for better fuel control

Year: ~2009/2010

injector in top of milled cylinder

injector in top of milled cylinder

Cylinder with Injector installed

Cylinder with Injector installed

Potato Cannon!

It seems 2004 – 2005 was a a busy year for me. I also started to make a Auto-loading potato/tennis ball cannon.

I already had a manually loading one which could shoot a tennis ball 100+ meters or so. But i wanted to one up it. and in comes the idea of a auto-loading, auto- priming cannon. Now the reason i was using tennis balls was; A, they were a uniform shape; B, the fuzz on the ball enabled it to have a perfectly snug fin in the bore of some PVC Tubing i had. Not too tight that it wouldn’t fire out and/or explode the combustion chamber in my face. Not too loose that it would fall out or into the combustion chamber. In other words “a perfect eggie” (sorry, inside joke, my mates will get it tho).

Probably the best, most fun part of this project was that it involved a bit of automation. Figuring out a logical sequence then the way to do it involving mechanical and electrical methods is that i find challenging and fun. Even if its just a motor, gas supply, and valve, all with a couple of relays which latched or disconnected based on micro-switches. A pretty dumb setup really but that was all it needed and it worked, for the most part anyway. The Gas Supply was on the side of the chamber with a regulator and 12v solenoid gas valve to turn it on and off.

The project got pretty far, to the point where i could load balls at the push of a button and i was testing the combustion mixture. But the mixture tuning became too hard and it needed forced aspiration to stop it melting itself. So after it melted the sealing taper of the chamber i gave up.

Cannon rearCannon gas setup side on

check out the video of what it did below:

Tesla coil

basic setup of auto-transformers, salt water capacitors, driver transistors  and a battery power source.
Basic end setup of auto-transformers, salt water capacitors, driver transistors and a battery power source.

HIGH VOLTAGE SPARKING!!! The thing of boys dreams.

This was one of the early electronics projects i did, so be kind. As crude as it was, it actually and surprisingly worked OK. Even with significant losses in the salt water capacitors (bottles wrapped in tinfoil on the right) it was still able to arc a gap of 15mm or so in air and shock the fuck out of you. For 15 year old me that was a win.

The setup is pretty standard with car ignition coils, spark gap, home made salt water capacitors an wound secondary transformer (black tube that makes the sparks), apart form the transistor drivers. I originally made a little 555 timer circuit that produced the signal to control the transistors but i quickly fried it, so i improvised…. In the top left of the picture is an old car sub-woofer amp which i used to drive the transistors. I then had either a laptop or mp3 player (cant remember now) hooked up to the amp producing the correct wave to get he system to run. I would NOT recommend doing this now though. Just a bad idea that somehow worked.

555 timer and driver transistors
555 timer and driver transistors
coils, spark gap, salt water capacitors and output transformer
Battery, coils, spark gap, salt water capacitors and output transformer
Tesla Coil light Bulb

One cool thing i did with it was connecting a large incandescent light bulb to the top of the output. Turned off the lights. And turned on the Tesla coil. It was pretty much a poor mans Plasma Globe. But just for bit of added fun, it would shock you a little bit when you touched it 😛

Another cool thing about it was if you held fluorescent bulbs near it, they would light up.

Year: ~2005

The fugly mini bike… thing

~2004-2005

Fugly mini bike. Year ~2004-2005

This one me and a friend made from scratch. We had the engine (Kawasaki, 90cc, disk valve) left over from an old Go-kart we made and destroyed the previous summer, so thought we better put it to good use.

It was a pretty crude make. Scooter wheels and breaks. Lawn mower gas tank on the rear to keep out of the front forks. Custom hand made seat. But it was fun to make, it did go and it was some good thin wall welding practice for us. Just when you already have a 200cc off road motorbike, the fun of riding this quickly wore off.

Year: ~2004

Go-kart with 550cc engine

No me and my friends didn’t make this from scratch. We inherited it in a basic state from a mates paddock, where it had been sitting for a couple of years. We just had to clean out the engine, add a fuel, electrical and air systems, weld up the frame a bit, tyres and the addition of the all important rear mudguards. No one likes being covered in cowpats.

But after all that “prep” it went pretty hard. Well you would expect so with a  5-speed, 550cc, Yamaha, inline four strapped to the back of it. After a good season of running it was sized and demoted from the garage back into a paddock.

Year: ~2005 – 2006

Big automotive fan added to try relieve the suffocating air cooled engine

Big automotive fan added to try relieve the suffocating air cooled engine

Go-Kart

You can see the camber of the front wheels. Not intended of course. Just bent that way because of poor design 😛

Because you know, when your 17 driving at high speeds at night is always a must.

Because you know, when your 15/16 driving at high speeds at night is always a must.